Are laser-assisted hair removal procedures safe?
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Q: I've heard horror stories about people who have obtained second-degree burns from laser hair removal procedures. Can this really happen? How safe is the procedure? Are there any alternatives to removing unwanted hair?
A: The newer types of laser delivery systems utilize cooling techniques that help to protect the top layer of the skin (epidermis) during treatment, thus lowering the risk for burns. Even so, it is not unusual to experience redness, mild pain and swelling after laser-assisted hair removal.
Second-degree burns (severe pain, blistering of the skin) have the potential to occur, but are not common. However, sensitivity to the treatment can vary from person to person. Speak with your physician to discuss realistic expectations and potential side effects prior to any procedure.
All lasers are not created equal
When discussing laser-assisted hair removal, you may hear names of devices with differing wavelengths and power, including ruby (RubyStar, Sinon); alexandrite (Apogee, Epitouch Alex, Gentlelase); Diode (LightSheer); intense pulsed light (IPL); Q-switched Nd:YAG; and Long-pulsed Nd:YAG lasers. There are others, but what's important to know is how they will work for you. These factors can impact effectiveness:
- Skin color (light or darker)—Fair-skinned individuals with darker hair may have better results
- Hair color (dark, blonde, red, grey)
- Thickness of hair (fine, dense)
- Location of hair (face, back, bikini line)
- Whether or not the area of unwanted hair is tanned
- Presense of any moles, surgical scars or tattoos in the area to be treated
- Previous methods of hair removal
- Medical conditions contributing to the hair growth (thyroid disease, polycystic ovarian disease, others)
Any current evidence of infection (such as herpes simplex or bacterial infection) would need to be treated prior to a laser procedure. Additionally, you may be asked to avoid tanning and/or sunless tanners, waxing, plucking or electrolysis of the hair in the region under consideration for laser hair removal.
Most lasers use low-energy beams that are absorbed by the darker pigmented (melanin) containing the shaft of the hair follicle, causing it to vaporize. Over time (often every 4 to 8 weeks) and through multiple treatments (usually 3 to 6, but this varies as hair grows in cycles) there's a reduction in hair growth in the treated area. And, if this hair does regrow, it tends to be lightly pigmented with a very fine texture. Minor side effects are common, including a very brief burning or stinging sensation during treatment as well as redness, mild discomfort and minimal swelling for one to five days after treatment.
If you are considering laser-assisted hair removal, it is important to visit a physician (family doctor, dermatologist or plastic surgeon) with advanced training in the use of these devices for medically related cosmetic procedures. Ask to see "before and after" pictures of others who have used the procedure and who have given permission to see their results. Find out if you can call these individuals to hear about their experiences, side effects and general impressions.
Other hair removal options
Removing unwanted hair is a personal decision. While some approaches (shaving) yield quick results for a short amount of time, others may mask the appearance of the hair (bleaching) or even lead to permanent hair removal (electrolysis). That said, options include but aren't limited to the following:
- Plucking or tweezing is commonly used for unwanted hair on the face, eyebrows and bikini area. While inexpensive, it is painful and can lead to hair regrowth in a matter of weeks.
- Waxing is a consideration for the eyebrow region, groin, back and chest, as well as the arms and legs. It can be painful and lead to an increased risk for folliculitis (infection of the hair follicules), but can remove hair for several weeks or more.
- Chemical depilatories are usually painless, but are often accompanied by a strong odor. Additional side effects may include skin irritation, burning, and in some cases, scarring (especially if not used according to the products directions). They often consist of gels, powders, aerosols, creams or lotions containing the calcium salts of thioglycolic acid. They work quickly and may keep unwanted hair away for up to five days. Depilatories are often used on the arms, legs or groin area.
- Eflornithine 13.9 percent cream is available by prescription and is often used for unwanted facial and neck hair. It needs to be used on a daily basis to prevent regrowth. This product may also enhance the effectiveness of laser-assisted hair removal in women with facial hair.
- Bleaching is a temporary technique and is best used for dark and thin hair. It is painless and works quickly. While it doesn't get rid of the hair, it does make it less obvious.
- Electrolysis involves destruction of the growth center of hair follicle with heat or chemical energy delivered through a hair-thin electrical probe. This technique can be used on different areas of the body, especially the face. Multiple treatments are often involved and can be very effective for permanent hair removal. However, it is important to work with a licensed and/or state certified electrologist to ensure proper training has taken place.
- Threading involves twisting cotton threads around rows of hair in order to pull them out. This technique offers a hair-free period that may last up to several weeks. It is often used on eyebrows.
- Sugaring involves the application of a paste made from sugar, lemon and water. While results are similar to waxing, it is usually less painful as the paste sticks to the hair, not the skin. It is often used to remove hair located on the face and other sensitive areas.
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